Sonntag, 14. August 2011

Impressions

Welcome back to Gbarnga!

Herzlich willkommen wieder in Gbarnga!

"Bok Bok!" We are sitting at breakfast table with white baguette, butter and jam when we hear these words. "Bok Bok!" Interesting - I am reading a book at the moment called "Blutsbrüder" (blood brothers) and just last night I read about this - that instead of knocking you say "bok bok!" - and here it is live - it is our dear lady Nje-Njema (or however you write this kpelle name) who helps us with the laundry:

" Bok Bok!" Wir sitzen gerade am Frühstückstisch und essen weisses baguette, butter (Luxus!) und Marmelade als wir diese Worte immer und immer wieder hören. "Bok Bok!" Interessant - gerade lese ich das Buch "Blutsbrüder und erst gestern habe ich genau darüber gelesen - dass man hier nicht anklopft sondern laut "Bok Bok" ruft - und jetzt passiert es live - es ist unsere nette Nje-Njema (keine Ahnung wie man diesen Kpelle-Namen wirklich schreibt..) die kommt um uns mit der Wäsche zu helfen:


My thoughts go back to what I read in the book last night... it is the story of a German missionary boy Mikel who comes to Liberia with his family and becomes best friends with Ben, a Liberian boy his age. 8 years later... they are 15 by now - the war breaks out. Mikel and his family are evacuated, Ben stays in Liberia and sees the most terrible things - tears were running down my cheeks when I read his descriptions about the cruelties of the war he had to see: babies killed just for "fun", women raped in front of his eyes, men beheaded, killings for the smallest bit of food, and lots of dark witchcraft that lead the rebels into doing unspeakable things.
Parallel to Ben writing about his heartwrenching experiences (and after talking to Regula about it she told me the shocking truth: Almost everyone here has seen things like that in front of their eyes!) Mikel descibes his own struggles about his difficulties to finding back into German life, not having friends, missing the African weather etc.
You can´t help to think that Mikel really has nothing to complain about when you read what Ben had to go through in the meantime.

Meine Gedanken wandern zurück zu dem was ich gestern abend in dem Buch gelesen habe... es ist die Geschichte von dem Missionarsjungen Mikel der mit seiner Familie nach Liberia kommt und da in Ben, einem gleichaltrigen liberianischen Jungen, einen besten Freund findet. 8 Jahre später - sie sind inzwischen 15 Jahre alt - bricht der Krieg in Liberia aus. Mikel und seine Familie werden evakuiert - Ben bleibt in Liberia und sieht die fürchterlichsten Dinge die man sich nicht einmal vorstellen kann - mir liefen die Tränen herunter während ich über die schrecklichen Grausamkeiten las, die er während dieses Krieges mitansehen musste: Babies die einfach zum Spass ermordert wurden indem sie an die Wand geklatscht wurden, Frauen und Mädchen die aufs Übelste vergewaltigt wurden, Männer geköpft, Ermordungen für ein bisschen was zu Essen, und viel dunkle Zauberei, die die Rebellen dazu brachten, unaussprechliche Dinge zu tun.
Parallel zu den herzzerbrechenden Berichten von Ben (und als ich mit Regula darüber sprach, meinte sie dass die schockierende Wahrheit ist, dass hier fast jeder solche Dinge mitansehen und erleben musste!) beschreibt Mikel seine eigenen Kämpfe beim Wiederankommen in der deutschen Kultur, mit Einsamkeit weil er keine Freunde findet, das Vermissen des afrikanischen Klimas...
Man denkt sich dabei dass Mikel eigentlich nicht wirklich einen Grund zum Jammern hat - wenn man liest was Ben in der Zwischenzeit alles erleiden musste.



I feel very much the same right now. Yes, we had our challenges this week - I had a sinusitis with headaches, Noah was a whiny little boy with diarrhea and other things that seem to bother him. We had Problems with Wolfgangs medical licence - he had to make a trip to Monrovia to see some officials who of course will not do anything without money - just want 150 US dollars for a stamp that Wolfgang is allowed to continue to help their people for free (this corruption makes us sick to our stomach!) ...
But then, just like Ben´s story, we look around and realize that this is nothing really to complain about. Most liberian families struggle in a complete different way. They don´t have the money to send their kids to school. Men have left their women and found a different wife somewhere... left his wife and children back alone - how can they support themselves? Women are the hardworking ones here anyways - caring for the kids, cooking, and often also have to work on the farm.

Nun, genauso fühle ich mich jetzt auch. Nun ja, wir hatten unsere Herausforderungen diese Woche: Ich hatte eine Stirnhöhlenentzündung mit viel Kopfschmerzen, Noah war ein sehr weinerlicher kleiner Junge mit Durchfall und anderen Dingen die ihn plagten Wir bekamen Probleme wegen Wolfgangs ärztlicher Zulassung hier in diesem Land (die er eigentlich schon hatte) und so musste Wolfgang die lange Reise nach Monrovia machen um irgendwelche Offiziellen zu sehen - die natürlich ohne Geld gar nichts machen "können" - und einfach so 150 US-Dollar wollen für einen Stempel - damit Wolfgang weiterhin kostenlos (!) ihrem Volk hilft ( bei so viel Korruption wird es einem ganz schlecht...)
Aber dann - wie in Ben´s Geschichte - wenn wir uns hier umschauen, dann merken wir dass wir eigentlich nicht wirklich Grund zum Jammern haben. Die meisten Liberianer kämpfen auf total andere Art. Die Familien haben oft kein Geld um ihre Kinder überhaupt in die Schule zu schicken. Männer verlassen einfach so ihre Frauen und suchen sich "einfach" irgendwo eine Neue.... und überlassen ihre Frau und Kinder einfach ihrem Schicksal - wie können sie denn für sich sorgen? Die Frauen sind eh diejenigen hier die am härtesten schuften müssen - Haushalt, Kochen, Kinder, Wasser holen.... und dazu oft auch noch die Farm bestellen!


And then just two days ago: Regula came to our door, crying. No school today, she has to go to a family where the 1 1/2 year old baby boy Joe has died last night. Caretaker is the grandmother, the mum has died during childbirth, the father had left them, probably found a new woman. The oma had come to the clinic two times, but they couldn´t help... Wolfgang didn´t get to see the boy. Not sure if he could have helped either - but it leaves you with this heavy ache... it could have been Noah....

Und dann.... gerade mal vor zwei Tagen: Regula kam weinend zu unserer Tür. Heute findet kein Unterricht statt - sie muss zu einer Familie gehen wo letzte Nacht der 1,5 Jahre alte kleine Junge Joe gestorben ist. Seine Oma hat sich um ihn gekümmert, denn die Mutter ist bei der Geburt gestorben. Der Vater ist schon lange abgehauen, vermutlich lebt er irgendwo bei einer anderen Frau. Die Oma hat das Kleinkind zweimal zur Klinik gebracht, aber sie konnten nicht helfen... Wolfgang bekam dies Kind leider gar nicht zur Untersuchung - natürlich wissen wir auch nicht ob er ihm hätte helfen können... aber so bleibt dieser schwere Schmerz dass man noch was versuchen hätte können... es hätte auch Noah sein können...

(this is not little Joe, but another little boy in the neighbourhood)
(dies ist nicht der kleine Joe, aber ein anderer kleiner Junge aus der Nachbarschaft)

We pray for the grandma now... that this will not make her bitter but bring her into the loving arms of God. We pray for all the people that the Elsers and others here have relationships with. So many sad stories, so much need. It shows our "complaints" in a different light. We pray that for you aswell as you read this. We have sooooo much to be thankful for! May thankfulness fill our hearts!

Wir beten jetzt für die Oma.... das dies Erlebnis sie nicht bitter macht sondern sie in die liebenden Arme unseres himmlischen Vaters bringt. Wir beten für alle Menschen hier zu denen die Elsers und die anderen Missionare gute Beziehungen haben. So viele traurige Geschichten, so viel Not. In Anbetracht dessen müssen wir unsere "Sorgen" in einem anderen Licht anschauen. Wir beten auch für euch die ihr dies lest. Es gibt soooo viel wofür wir und ihr dankbar sein können! Möge Dankbarkeit unsere Herzen erfüllen!

This week I will put up some pictures from last week as impressions for you:

Diese Woche möchte ich ein paar Bilder als Impressionen mit euch teilen:


Gbarnga "downtown" (about 10 min by car away from here). Regula and I and some others go to the market on Saturdays to buy whatever fresh food is availabe - it is like lottery, you don´t know beforehand what you can get this time...

Dies ist Gbarnga Downtown - (ungefähr 10 Min. mit dem Auto von uns entfernt - aber nur so lang weil die Wege echt krass sind!) Regula und ich und ein paar andere gehen Samstags auf den Markt auf der Suche nach jeglichen frischen Nahrungsmitteln die gerade angeboten werden - es ist ein wenig ein Glücksspiel, und du weisst nicht was du wohl dieses mal finden kannst...

Check out the wheelbarrels... anything interesting offered?

Kurzer Blick in die Schubkarren... wird wohl was interessantes angeboten?


In the market.... quite an experience for all senses! Not very relaxing way of shopping though...

Der Gang durch den Markt ist ein Erlebnis für alle Sinne! Doch es ist nicht unbedingt ein entspannendes Einkaufen...


Rice, spices, etc... most of it is sold in cups or in little piles of 3-5 pieces.

Reis, Gewürze etc.. das meiste wird mit Tassen abgemessen oder in kleinen Haufen à 3-5 Stück verkauft.


For the rest of things needed (like pasta, milk powder, cookies, tomatoe paste...) we go to the "family store" - run by Lebanese business men who have most businesses here in Liberia.

Den Rest (wie Nudeln, Milchpulver, Kekse, Tomatenpaste etc) kaufen wir im "family store" - der von Libanesen geführt wird - die Libanesen haben leider fast alle Geschäfte hier fest in ihrer Hand!


We are glad to transport everything back in the car... most people here have to carry it on their heads - others are more fortunate to own a motorbike...

Nun sind wir froh dass wir unsere Einkäufe nicht zu Fuss sondern mit dem Auto heimbringen können. Die meisten müssen ihre Lasten auf dem Kopf tragen... nicht viele sind mit einem Motorrad gesegnet...


Still... gas is very expensive here! A typical liberian gas station - you buy the fuel in containers and pour it in by hand...

Tja, dazu ist Benzin hier sehr teuer! Dies ist eine typische liberianische Tankstelle - du kaufst den Treibstoff in Behältern und füllst es per Hand ein...


Back home I present my shopping to Wolfgang: it has been a very successful trip to the market! A special treat: an old man on the street even sold lettuce - spectacular for here! We also found cucumbers, pumpkin, grapefruit, bananas... wonderful!

Wieder in unserem Haus präsentiere ich Wolfgang meine Einkäufe: es war ein sehr erfolgreicher Einkauf gewesen! Und das besondere Glück war, dass wir einen alten Mann fanden, der auf der STrasse Salat verkaufte - etwas spektakuläres hier! Wir fanden dazu auch Gurken, Kürbis, (sehr saure) Grapefruits, Bananen ... super!


Sometimes kids come to our door that try to sell homemade cookies ( for about 20 cents a piece, our kids love them!) or produce from their parents´farms (that is completely worked by hand!). We are glad that we can get cucumbers at the moment!

Manchmal kommen auch Kinder zu unserer Tür und bieten uns verschiedenes zum Kauf an: selbergebackene Kekse (ca. 20 cent pro Stück, unsere Kinder lieben sie!) oder Lebensmittel von der Farm ihrer Eltern (die komplett per Hand bestellt wird!) Wir sind sehr froh dass wir zur Zeit gerade Gurken kaufen können!


Sunday is church day! Everyone who goes to church dresses up in their best clothes . Women have to cover their heads. Long skirts are a must - like all the time anyways! Women in pants are considered as prostitutes.

Sonntag ist Kirche angesagt! All diejenigen die hier zu einer Kirche gehen, ziehen ihre beste Kleidung an. Frauen bedecken in der Kirche ihren Kopf. Lange Röcke sind ein Muss - aber nicht nur am Sonntag! Frauen in Hosen werden hier als Prostituierte angesehen!


Our walk to church in town: The Elser family have two strollers, we borroughed one for Noah. But the paths here are not made for strollers...

Unser Fussweg zur Kirche: Familie Elser besitzt zwei Kinderwägen, und wir liehen uns einen davon für Noah aus. Aber die Wege hier sind alles andere als Kinderwagengerecht...


The neighbourhood that we pass on our way to church...

So sieht die Umgebung aus auf dem Weg zur Kirche...


The village well... it is the women and children that have to get water for the family...

Dies ist der Dorfbrunnen... natürlich (?) ist es die Arbeit der Frauen und Kinder, das Wasser für die Familien heranzuschleppen...


After church we were offered banana bread as we were special guests- Noah liked it too!

Nach dem Gottesdienst bot man uns als besonderen Gästen Bananenkuchen an - Noah mochte es auch sehr!


Speaking of food: We had our first guests at our house for dinner! These are not Liberian women - they are two Jamaican ladies who are here as missionaries.

Wenn wir über Essen reden: Wir hatten unsere ersten Gäste zum Abendessen hier bei uns! Dies sind keine Liberianerinnen sondern zwei Frauen aus Jamaica die als Missionare hierhergekommen sind.


And then the work week started! Wolfgang working in the clinic, teaching in the P.A programme about the tropical diseases they face everyday...

Und dann fing die Arbeitswoche wieder an! Wolfgang half mit in der Klinik, unterrichtete im Gesundheitstraining über tropische Krankheiten mit denen die medizinischen Kräfte jeden Tag konfrontiert sind...

... or seeing patients that come to our door. This is a man that had a huge belly, looked like 9 months pregnant.

... oder sieht Patienten an die zu uns an die Tür kommen. Dieser Mann hatte einen riesigen Bauch, sah aus wie im 9.Monat schwanger.


Mr. Malata came with severe back pain and numbness in his legs. I try to treat him and show him exercises. Physical therapy is not known here at all...

Mr. Malata kam mit starken Rückenschmerzen und Taubheitsgefühl in seinen Beinen. Jetzt versuche ich ihn zu behandeln und ihm Übungen zu zeigen. Physiotherapie ist hier gänzlich unbekannt...


I continued to teach Joshua and Amy as first graders and also started to teach all of the kids sports - we started to learn a dance. Soon my dance students multiplied for the neighbour kids wanted to participate...

Ich unterrichtete weiterhin vormittags Joshua und Amy als Erstklässler und gab auch Sportunterricht - wir fingen mit einem Tanz an! Schnell vermehrten sich meine Tanzschüler, denn die Kinder aus der Nachbarschaft wollten auch teilnehmen!


Noah is happier again now - and starts to play more! I built him protectors for his knees out of a pair of Davids socks so that he can crawl better....

Noah ist wieder fröhlicher - und spielt mehr! Ich hab ihm jetzt einen Knieschutz gebastelt (aus einem Paar Socken von David) damit er besser krabbeln kann.... dennoch bevorzugt er der Bärengang!




I heard it is raining alot in Germany? Well, it also rains here alot, too. What means extra fun for our kids(and extra laundry - unless you do it like the Liberians!)

So - ich hab gehört dass es in Deutschland viel regnet? Nun, hier regnet es auch unglaublich viel! Was aber für unsere Kinder auch extra Spass bedeutet (und extra Wäsche - es sei denn sie würden es so wie die Liberianer machen....)

For now good bye, good night, ka gwele ua (good buy in Kpelle in my own writing) and till next week! Lots of love from the Edele-5

Soviel for now - jetzt erstmal tschüss, gute Nacht, ka gwele ua (auf Wiedersehen auf Kpelle in meiner eigenen Rechtschreibung) und bis nächste Woche! Alles Liebe von den 5 Edelchen


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If you were so inclined, Wikipedia could really use your photos of Gbarnga. Assuming you took them, you could upload them under a free license.